Andrew Edmunds is my type of place: it has all the familiarity of a local restaurant, offers a truly seasonal menu, has no pretence, and you feel welcome. So much so that it's a place that you'll want to return again and again once you discover it.
So why it has taken me so long to get there? I have no idea. It's a place that I have frequently walked past and have long been drawn to its quaint 18th Century exterior, outdoor tables on this quieter street of Soho, and hand-written menu. It has spoken an old world charm that I find immensely appealing; but somehow, I have always been reminded of its existence post-lunch elsewhere and so it has remained on my-do list. But no more I tell you after a fabulous lunch of Saturday made exclusively of entrees and a dashing semi-aged riesling. So what came to the table: a wonderfully spiced sobrasada with roasted tomatoes and rosemary served on sourdough toast; roasted heritage beetroot, ricotta, burnt butter breadcrumbs with sorrel (both pictured); pork and sweetbread terrine with fig mostarda (so delicious that I forgot to take a photo!), and whole sardines with harissa creme fraiche and pickled cucumber. And yes, we added hazel ice-cream at the end and a vanilla pannacotta with apricot.
I suspect that Andrew Edmunds doesn't get the attention that is deserves and is somehow eclipsed by the latest and the new in the glamorous kaleidoscope that is Soho. However, with its old-world charm, Andrew Edmunds is an hidden institution of Soho - an experience to be savoured and experienced like all the very best of good food and wine.
Address: 46 Lexington St, London W1F 0LP
Phone: 020 7437 5708
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